Thursday, April 24, 2014

It's what's for dinner!

I suspect I'm not alone in using dinner templates - a basic pattern or outline in which ingredients get filled in, to save thinking late in the day. Here's my latest one, which will be adapted to seasonal conditions as the year goes on.

Ravioli Bowl with Vegetables

First, you need some ravioli, or other stuffed pasta. If you make this sort of thing yourself, great; otherwise buy some (the fresh kind that cooks in a few minutes). You'll cook it near the end of the dinner-making process. I've made this template thus far with vegetable, shrimp, and portobello mushroom ravioli.

You'll also need:

  • Fresh salad greens with an interesting taste: watercress, mache, arugula, baby spinach, etc.
  • Vegetables that will cook well together in a pan. Anything goes, just about. Seasonal and/or home-grown is best!
  • Feta or other crumbly cheese. You could also add Parmesan or other grating cheese.
  • Seasonings as desired. Pesto is really good. Fresh basil leaves are awesome.
  • Olive oil, and probably balsamic vinegar.

Get the vegetables ready - wash, peel, chop as necessary. Some may need to be pre-cooked in order to come out tender. Sauté them together in the olive oil. The above dish used wintered-over kale (first demo garden harvest!), onions, and peppers. I've also used brussels sprouts (sliced thin), carrots (julienne-cut), and broccoli. Sweet potato or squash (cut into cubes and steamed) would be delicious. Tomatoes will be great in summer. Et cetera.

Season as desired while cooking. Splash the balsamic vinegar around liberally.

If using pesto, mix it in when the vegetables are almost cooked. You are also cooking the pasta at this point (it usually takes 5-7 minutes, but remember to get the water simmering ahead of time).

Layer in a bowl: first the fresh greens, roughly torn; then the hot ravioli, then anything else you only want to get warm but not cooked, like fresh basil, or avocado; then the mixed veggies; then crumble cheese on top. Serve with a big spoon so you can scoop up all the layers at once.

This can be varied by taste in infinite ways. Suggest things!

Monday, April 21, 2014

It’s bee-time !!

Here at Green Haven Estate, we involuntarily give food and shelter to many fuzzy bees.  We have…


Carpenter bees  

And numerous unspecified species like these ones.  

This year, we will add another bee: the Orchard Mason bee.  

Like the others mentioned above, this Mason bee is friendly to humans but it will defend itself if you corner or squeeze one.

These bees specialize in fruit trees and cross-pollination.  If a Honeybee does one section of the tree at a time, these hard workers will visit many flowers in a short period of time but not necessarily on the same tree.  Because they live above ground, they are advantageous over the bumblebees, which emerge from the ground, to pollinate an early flowering fruit tree. On the other hand, the Mason bee works only during spring time and has approximately a 300’ radius of action.

All you need are a couple of 5/16” diameter/3” deep holes made from tubes or drilled into some wood.

If you’re serious about Mason bees, you will raise them. That means: 

  • Install the holes/tubes in a dry and wind-protected location, 
  • Provide 5/16” diameter/6” deep holes for a better ratio of 2 females for 1 male, 
  • Move the tubes/block into a dry shelter during the fall and winter months 
  • Make new tubes every year and throw away the old ones or clean/redrill and sanitize the holes every year.
  • Keep some in your fridge because you want to time their emergence correctly with the target fruit trees.
  • Make sure they have plenty of food, aka flowers, and mud at the time they emerge from their holes– typically here in central Maryland roughly end of March/early April to the end of May.

For more info, The Orchard Mason Bee: The Life History,Biology, Propagation, and Use of a North American Native Bee by Brian L. Griffin is often the recommended book.


Friday, April 18, 2014

Notice: be aware of frost damage at the big box store.

As you probably realized this week, we had many days of temperature around the freezing point. At one time, here in central Maryland, the water in the potholes froze.

We surveyed the frost tender plants at some of our local big box stores and with no surprise, we found many, if not all in some places, tomato plants with frost damage on the leaves because the plants was left outside during the nights.

Example of frost damage on a tomato plant

What surprised us is at one big box store, they brought inside, to a warm place, all their no-frost and no-cold resistant plants. More, because the temperature at 10:00am was around 40*F, the plants were always inside protected against the cold weather.

Keeping seeds warm: heat mats for germination

This topic has come up in a couple of different contexts recently, so I thought it was time for a post. I am relatively new to owning and using a heat mat for seed germination, so I welcome comments from more experienced users.

Seeds require different soil temperatures for germination. You can refer to various charts for ideal germination temperature, such as this PDF from Oregon State Extension, or books on vegetable growing or propagation (Suzanne Ashworth's Seed to Seed is very useful). Depending on the temperature of your seed-starting environment, you may have to raise soil temperatures by artificial means. My seeds are starting in our upstairs furnace/laundry room, which stays pretty warm (unless, as in spring 2012, outdoor temperatures are unseasonably high and the furnace hardly ever goes on), but I still found that a few crops were sluggish, so I decided to invest in a heat mat. You can buy these through just about any seed catalog or gardening supply site.

Here are some of my plastic egg-carton seed starters on my heat mat:

Note that the mouse melons in the upper set have sprouted. This means that I need to move them off the mat to another location. (Problem is I don't have space anywhere else, but this is a separate issue; see "eyes bigger than garden" concept in last post.) Seeds of heat-loving plants in families like cucurbits and nightshades need warm soil temperatures to germinate, pretty close to the 87 degrees F. a thermometer just registered in the mouse melon cells, but seedlings will be damaged by prolonged exposure to those temperatures. They are going to prefer something closer to 70 F, which should be provided by the room temperature space under lights.

So if you want to give your melon, tomato, eggplant, or other heat-loving seeds a boost, especially if your seed-starting room is cold (a lot of people use basements), do try a heat mat, but do your seedlings a favor and move them off it after germination. Some seeds prefer colder temperatures (I've tried a few where the recommended soil temp was 50-60, and I had to put them in the chilly upstairs bathroom to get them going), but most are going to be slow to start in cold rooms. I suppose if you want to maintain 70 soil temp in a 60-degree room, you could use a heat mat but put something between the seedling flat and the mat - anyone try this? There are also temperature regulators available for some brands of heat mats.

By the way, there is a pervasive bit of advice that goes "start your seeds on top of your refrigerator for bottom heat." This works fine as long as you have an older refrigerator, but most of the new energy-efficient ones stay pretty cool on top, and vent what heat they produce somewhere else. But you may well have warm spots elsewhere among your appliances. I tend to put rising bread dough on top of the water heater (not enough space for much in the way of seed flats, though).

I am likely going to invest in another heat mat next year, because it really does help to get seeds going fast, and convinces some to germinate that would otherwise fail.

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Planting Out The Peas

Snow peas planted along staggered fencing

They were starting to yellow, so it was time to get them in the ground, but the weather has seesawed so much and the critters are so prolific that I wasn’t sure I wanted to. All that loving work only to watch my otherwise healthy pea plants either die of frost or get gobbled by the beasts. Tough. But they either needed to go into the ground (or a pot or SOMETHING bigger with more nutrient and root-growth possibilities than the little 72-cell flats).  It was, simply, time, though when you’ve sprouted them, nurtured them and watched them grow into beautiful 10-inch possibilities, leaving them on their own in the garden at night is a bit like giving your kid the car keys for the first time. (It has to be done but oh my!).

So, on a relatively calm, sorta sunny day, I planted them in two different spots in the vegetable garden. The snow peas went into in a bed that’s semi-protected by an outbuilding on the north side and I stuck a few Forellenschluss lettuces in just south of them to keep them company. Out of curiosity, and because I think they might be just past the tender, rabbit-tempting stage, I left them unprotected.  

On the west side of the garden, I planted the purple-podded shell peas. I like snow peas, but I really LOVE shell peas and look forward to the harvest every year so wanted to take a little more care with them. Usually I’m too lazy to pound stakes in the ground and then put up wire for them to climb on, waiting instead until the peas are a tangled sprawl on the ground before I try to persuade them to climb on something. (I don’t recommend it). This year, I had treated myself to pea fencing that was really easy to jam into the ground, which was bliss (provided it holds).  In an attempt to protect the plants from both frost and rabbits, I clothes-pinned row cover to the top of the fencing on both sides. (As I wrote this, I suddenly thought: What a dummy! I should have pinned it much lower down so it wouldn’t be such a big fat sail in the wind! Some inspirations come a little late.)

As I planted, I discovered that many of the peas had already started to send out climbing tendrils, and a few hugged each other like long-lost friends. Those I stuck in on either side of the fencing together so I wouldn’t have to unwind the tendrils, a tedious job at best. Plus separating those bonded plants just didn’t seem right.
Row cover on the pea fencing waving in the breeze

Now, a week later, and one night after a 26F night, so far, so good. The row cover has been an interesting experiment. The warm blustery wind from the SSW kept picking up the row cover from beneath its rocks so it’s spent days flapping like a tattered sail. But, so far the peas are untouched, which may mean that even if it’s not covering the plants, it’s scaring the rabbits, which will do for now.  Last night and tonight will be another test. Peas can go through a light frost; we had a light freeze last night here on the upper Easter Shore (the bird baths were all skimmed over). Tonight’s predicted to be more of the same.

Now the wind is coming from the north, so I’ll go out later today and see if I can get the north side row cover stuff back under the rocks I use to hold it to the ground, (and take a reef in it to reduce the windage). Fingers crossed.

Time and the weather this season will tell whether starting peas inside was a good idea – Anna suggested sprouting them in a plastic bag in the house (see comment on Seeding Peas Indoors for instructions) and then planting them out at the right time (a moving target this year). Even if it turns out to have not been worth the trouble of starting them, I’ve enjoyed it. That may be reason enough.
Peeking beneath the flapping row cover to the peas

p.s. Thursday evening: The uncovered peas looked a little stressed, so I wrapped some row cover over them yesterday, and also reefed the tall sail down on the shell pea fencing so the whole kit and kaboodle doesn't get taken down in the next big wind. So far so good. Only a few more nights of protection and we SHOULD be frost-free.