Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Reasons you should attend this Saturday's GIEI event in Montgomery County

photo by Lauren Greenberger, June 2013
10. You can say hi to me in the demo garden! And it won't be raining!

9. You can learn how to preserve the food you grow - but only if you register ahead of time! (There are a few seats left, but hurry.)

8. You can bring your tools and learn how to keep them sharp. Watch your fingers!

7. You can watch Master Gardeners planting the same tomato plant, seed potatoes, and sweet potato slips over and over until all of them are exhausted - and you've learned to do it too!

6. You can make an awesome Bamboo Buttress with Beer Box - plan to bob up like an early bird before the bamboo backlog, um, ebbs.

5. You can taste some delicious dishes made from cucurbits. Mm, cucurbits.

4. You can see how we Grow100 and how you can Grow100 too.

3. You can buy plants to put in your garden, and learn everything about how to grow them.

2. Two words: Insect. Zoo.

1. And you can find out everything you want to know about container gardening, salad tables, herbs, small fruits, straw bale gardening, row covers, attracting pollinators, mulching, donating food to the hungry, composting, recycling, ponds, and soil. As well as any other gardening topics you have questions about.

We hope to see you there - Saturday, May 3, 8:30-1. Read here about the great classes and demonstrations we have planned!

Starting cucurbits under lights

Despite the cold winter we had this year and the cool, wet spring we have had so far, I'm still looking forward to a return to more seasonal temperatures by my warm season plant out date of May 17.  This is the date that there is a 10% or less chance of frost (one year in ten there may be a frost after this date) in the Clarksville area of Maryland.  To find spring frost/freeze dates for your area, click on this link.

So, assuming that warm weather will return, I have started all of my transplantable warm weather vegetables on schedule (click on "Seed Starting and Planting Dates" in the top left corner of the page).  By starting these vegetables indoors under fluorescent lights, I get a 4 to 8 week head start on the summer season and, thus, earlier yields from these crops.  The latest vegetables started were my cucurbits.  I sow seeds of my cucurbits about 4 weeks prior to my plant out date in 4 inch pots, filled with soilless mix, 3 or 4 seeds to a pot.  Once they sprout, I usually thin the pots to the two strongest plants, keep them under the lights for two weeks, then move them into my cold frame for a week of hardening off.

Cucurbits are easy to start and one of the few vegetables which can be started without fluorescent lights.  Just start them in a warm area and after they sprout, sit them outside in a sheltered, sunny area.  Just remember to bring them is at night or when temperatures dictate.

I have an affection for the cucurbit family and have started lots of them.  What you see in the flat are several varieties of cucumber (Iznik, Sweet Slice and Diva) summer squash (Black Beauty, Costata Romanesco  and Ambassador zucchini and Early Prolific Crookneck), melons (cantaloupes Tasty Bites and honeydew Dulce Nectar). winter squash (Butternut), Pumpkin (sugar) and watermelon (Moon & Stars)

As you can see from the picture, most of them have sprouted, although a few of the lazy ones are waiting for warmer weather.  If these don't sprout in the next couple of days, I'll reseed them and try again.  It's not to late to start a couple of pots of your favorite cucumber or summer squash inside and by doing so, you'll get earlier production from your cucurbits.

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Grow It Eat It Scan It

In case you're as tired from weekend gardening as I am, and just want something to stare at for a while, have some animated MRI scans of fruits and vegetables. Amazing. Also fun to try to guess what you're looking at.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

It's what's for dinner!

I suspect I'm not alone in using dinner templates - a basic pattern or outline in which ingredients get filled in, to save thinking late in the day. Here's my latest one, which will be adapted to seasonal conditions as the year goes on.

Ravioli Bowl with Vegetables

First, you need some ravioli, or other stuffed pasta. If you make this sort of thing yourself, great; otherwise buy some (the fresh kind that cooks in a few minutes). You'll cook it near the end of the dinner-making process. I've made this template thus far with vegetable, shrimp, and portobello mushroom ravioli.

You'll also need:

  • Fresh salad greens with an interesting taste: watercress, mache, arugula, baby spinach, etc.
  • Vegetables that will cook well together in a pan. Anything goes, just about. Seasonal and/or home-grown is best!
  • Feta or other crumbly cheese. You could also add Parmesan or other grating cheese.
  • Seasonings as desired. Pesto is really good. Fresh basil leaves are awesome.
  • Olive oil, and probably balsamic vinegar.

Get the vegetables ready - wash, peel, chop as necessary. Some may need to be pre-cooked in order to come out tender. Sauté them together in the olive oil. The above dish used wintered-over kale (first demo garden harvest!), onions, and peppers. I've also used brussels sprouts (sliced thin), carrots (julienne-cut), and broccoli. Sweet potato or squash (cut into cubes and steamed) would be delicious. Tomatoes will be great in summer. Et cetera.

Season as desired while cooking. Splash the balsamic vinegar around liberally.

If using pesto, mix it in when the vegetables are almost cooked. You are also cooking the pasta at this point (it usually takes 5-7 minutes, but remember to get the water simmering ahead of time).

Layer in a bowl: first the fresh greens, roughly torn; then the hot ravioli, then anything else you only want to get warm but not cooked, like fresh basil, or avocado; then the mixed veggies; then crumble cheese on top. Serve with a big spoon so you can scoop up all the layers at once.

This can be varied by taste in infinite ways. Suggest things!

Monday, April 21, 2014

It’s bee-time !!

Here at Green Haven Estate, we involuntarily give food and shelter to many fuzzy bees.  We have…


Carpenter bees  

And numerous unspecified species like these ones.  

This year, we will add another bee: the Orchard Mason bee.  

Like the others mentioned above, this Mason bee is friendly to humans but it will defend itself if you corner or squeeze one.

These bees specialize in fruit trees and cross-pollination.  If a Honeybee does one section of the tree at a time, these hard workers will visit many flowers in a short period of time but not necessarily on the same tree.  Because they live above ground, they are advantageous over the bumblebees, which emerge from the ground, to pollinate an early flowering fruit tree. On the other hand, the Mason bee works only during spring time and has approximately a 300’ radius of action.

All you need are a couple of 5/16” diameter/3” deep holes made from tubes or drilled into some wood.

If you’re serious about Mason bees, you will raise them. That means: 

  • Install the holes/tubes in a dry and wind-protected location, 
  • Provide 5/16” diameter/6” deep holes for a better ratio of 2 females for 1 male, 
  • Move the tubes/block into a dry shelter during the fall and winter months 
  • Make new tubes every year and throw away the old ones or clean/redrill and sanitize the holes every year.
  • Keep some in your fridge because you want to time their emergence correctly with the target fruit trees.
  • Make sure they have plenty of food, aka flowers, and mud at the time they emerge from their holes– typically here in central Maryland roughly end of March/early April to the end of May.

For more info, The Orchard Mason Bee: The Life History,Biology, Propagation, and Use of a North American Native Bee by Brian L. Griffin is often the recommended book.


Friday, April 18, 2014

Notice: be aware of frost damage at the big box store.

As you probably realized this week, we had many days of temperature around the freezing point. At one time, here in central Maryland, the water in the potholes froze.

We surveyed the frost tender plants at some of our local big box stores and with no surprise, we found many, if not all in some places, tomato plants with frost damage on the leaves because the plants was left outside during the nights.

Example of frost damage on a tomato plant

What surprised us is at one big box store, they brought inside, to a warm place, all their no-frost and no-cold resistant plants. More, because the temperature at 10:00am was around 40*F, the plants were always inside protected against the cold weather.

Keeping seeds warm: heat mats for germination

This topic has come up in a couple of different contexts recently, so I thought it was time for a post. I am relatively new to owning and using a heat mat for seed germination, so I welcome comments from more experienced users.

Seeds require different soil temperatures for germination. You can refer to various charts for ideal germination temperature, such as this PDF from Oregon State Extension, or books on vegetable growing or propagation (Suzanne Ashworth's Seed to Seed is very useful). Depending on the temperature of your seed-starting environment, you may have to raise soil temperatures by artificial means. My seeds are starting in our upstairs furnace/laundry room, which stays pretty warm (unless, as in spring 2012, outdoor temperatures are unseasonably high and the furnace hardly ever goes on), but I still found that a few crops were sluggish, so I decided to invest in a heat mat. You can buy these through just about any seed catalog or gardening supply site.

Here are some of my plastic egg-carton seed starters on my heat mat:

Note that the mouse melons in the upper set have sprouted. This means that I need to move them off the mat to another location. (Problem is I don't have space anywhere else, but this is a separate issue; see "eyes bigger than garden" concept in last post.) Seeds of heat-loving plants in families like cucurbits and nightshades need warm soil temperatures to germinate, pretty close to the 87 degrees F. a thermometer just registered in the mouse melon cells, but seedlings will be damaged by prolonged exposure to those temperatures. They are going to prefer something closer to 70 F, which should be provided by the room temperature space under lights.

So if you want to give your melon, tomato, eggplant, or other heat-loving seeds a boost, especially if your seed-starting room is cold (a lot of people use basements), do try a heat mat, but do your seedlings a favor and move them off it after germination. Some seeds prefer colder temperatures (I've tried a few where the recommended soil temp was 50-60, and I had to put them in the chilly upstairs bathroom to get them going), but most are going to be slow to start in cold rooms. I suppose if you want to maintain 70 soil temp in a 60-degree room, you could use a heat mat but put something between the seedling flat and the mat - anyone try this? There are also temperature regulators available for some brands of heat mats.

By the way, there is a pervasive bit of advice that goes "start your seeds on top of your refrigerator for bottom heat." This works fine as long as you have an older refrigerator, but most of the new energy-efficient ones stay pretty cool on top, and vent what heat they produce somewhere else. But you may well have warm spots elsewhere among your appliances. I tend to put rising bread dough on top of the water heater (not enough space for much in the way of seed flats, though).

I am likely going to invest in another heat mat next year, because it really does help to get seeds going fast, and convinces some to germinate that would otherwise fail.

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Planting Out The Peas

Snow peas planted along staggered fencing

They were starting to yellow, so it was time to get them in the ground, but the weather has seesawed so much and the critters are so prolific that I wasn’t sure I wanted to. All that loving work only to watch my otherwise healthy pea plants either die of frost or get gobbled by the beasts. Tough. But they either needed to go into the ground (or a pot or SOMETHING bigger with more nutrient and root-growth possibilities than the little 72-cell flats).  It was, simply, time, though when you’ve sprouted them, nurtured them and watched them grow into beautiful 10-inch possibilities, leaving them on their own in the garden at night is a bit like giving your kid the car keys for the first time. (It has to be done but oh my!).

So, on a relatively calm, sorta sunny day, I planted them in two different spots in the vegetable garden. The snow peas went into in a bed that’s semi-protected by an outbuilding on the north side and I stuck a few Forellenschluss lettuces in just south of them to keep them company. Out of curiosity, and because I think they might be just past the tender, rabbit-tempting stage, I left them unprotected.  

On the west side of the garden, I planted the purple-podded shell peas. I like snow peas, but I really LOVE shell peas and look forward to the harvest every year so wanted to take a little more care with them. Usually I’m too lazy to pound stakes in the ground and then put up wire for them to climb on, waiting instead until the peas are a tangled sprawl on the ground before I try to persuade them to climb on something. (I don’t recommend it). This year, I had treated myself to pea fencing that was really easy to jam into the ground, which was bliss (provided it holds).  In an attempt to protect the plants from both frost and rabbits, I clothes-pinned row cover to the top of the fencing on both sides. (As I wrote this, I suddenly thought: What a dummy! I should have pinned it much lower down so it wouldn’t be such a big fat sail in the wind! Some inspirations come a little late.)

As I planted, I discovered that many of the peas had already started to send out climbing tendrils, and a few hugged each other like long-lost friends. Those I stuck in on either side of the fencing together so I wouldn’t have to unwind the tendrils, a tedious job at best. Plus separating those bonded plants just didn’t seem right.
Row cover on the pea fencing waving in the breeze

Now, a week later, and one night after a 26F night, so far, so good. The row cover has been an interesting experiment. The warm blustery wind from the SSW kept picking up the row cover from beneath its rocks so it’s spent days flapping like a tattered sail. But, so far the peas are untouched, which may mean that even if it’s not covering the plants, it’s scaring the rabbits, which will do for now.  Last night and tonight will be another test. Peas can go through a light frost; we had a light freeze last night here on the upper Easter Shore (the bird baths were all skimmed over). Tonight’s predicted to be more of the same.

Now the wind is coming from the north, so I’ll go out later today and see if I can get the north side row cover stuff back under the rocks I use to hold it to the ground, (and take a reef in it to reduce the windage). Fingers crossed.

Time and the weather this season will tell whether starting peas inside was a good idea – Anna suggested sprouting them in a plastic bag in the house (see comment on Seeding Peas Indoors for instructions) and then planting them out at the right time (a moving target this year). Even if it turns out to have not been worth the trouble of starting them, I’ve enjoyed it. That may be reason enough.
Peeking beneath the flapping row cover to the peas

p.s. Thursday evening: The uncovered peas looked a little stressed, so I wrapped some row cover over them yesterday, and also reefed the tall sail down on the shell pea fencing so the whole kit and kaboodle doesn't get taken down in the next big wind. So far so good. Only a few more nights of protection and we SHOULD be frost-free.

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Starting tomatoes too early

You know what they say about your eyes being bigger than your stomach? There are several horticultural equivalents to that (one of them frequently masquerades as "intensive gardening" but really isn't) and the one I fell for again this year was starting my tomatoes a bit too early.

When I was a younger gardener, and just embarking on seed-starting, I jumped the gun and put tomato seeds in pots as early as mid-February. This resulted in enormous plants long before it was safe to even take the seedlings outdoors, let alone plant them in the ground. I've since settled on mid-to-late March as the best starting time - but something about my schedule this year made me decide that March 11 was a good date, and those few days (plus some really vigorous seedlings) make a difference.

I should have put a ruler into the photo for context, but that big one in the back is 11 inches tall. Good thing my lights are adjustable. I have cold frames for hardening off (after this cold snap is over - make sure your vulnerable plants are protected tonight and tomorrow!) but considering how this year's going, I'm not planning to put plants in the ground until after Mother's Day.

Really I should learn to be like Bob and start my plants in late April, but I just can't help wanting to have those green monsters cheering up the house in early spring/late winter/whatever it is. Of course, after going out of my way to acquire seeds for Aunt Ruby's German Green tomatoes, I forgot to start them with all the others, so they went in the first week of April, and will be much more reasonable in size when planting time comes around. I'm sure they will catch up just fine.

Other varieties I'm growing this year (speaking of eyes being bigger than gardens, even though I have two gardens to plant in): Abruzzo, Amish Paste, Brandywine Sudduth's Strain, Gypsy, Indigo Apple, Isis Candy Cherry, Juliet, Orange Icicle, Riesentraube, and Striped Roman. Some are old favorites, some are from donated seeds, and some I just really wanted to try.

By the way, the plant labels are made from plastic sticks out of a Edible Arrangements gift basket, with orange duct tape to write on. I like recycling.

I've got lots of other cheerful seedlings taking up space on my shelves, including peppers:

which are doing pretty well, though still suffering an aphid infestation. This is after I removed each seedling from its soilless mix and rinsed it carefully under running water before transplanting, after having sprayed with soapy water and crushed many aphids on baby leaves and stems with my gentle fingers. I'm still crushing and spraying, and keeping the population limited, because it'll be a while before these plants can go outside. You know how people complain about ladybugs getting into their house in the winter? Where are mine, I ask? Though speaking of home-invader insects, I found a brown marmorated stink bug on one of the pepper seedlings the other day. Grr.

How are all of your seed-starting experiments going?

Monday, April 14, 2014

Unexpected cardoon survival

Last year we planted cardoons in the demo garden, and they became impressive plants:

although didn't make it to flowering stage. In the fall, I cut down the stalks and prepared the roots for winter as suggested: mulching well with leaves, placing a bucket over each plant stub, and tying the whole thing down with black plastic on top. Then came the arctic blast of this winter, and despite the protection, I didn't expect the plants to survive. But, a couple of weeks after we took all the plastic stuff off, they are back and growing:

Now the interesting part, because I also had a cardoon plant in my community garden plot, which never achieved anything like the height and breadth of the demo garden plants (it's the soil). I decided to let it die, and didn't mulch it at all. You would think the repeated hard freezes of the winter would have done for it. Nevertheless:

And that was a week before the plants in the demo garden showed themselves. I'm impressed. I've had cardoon plants overwinter before (see below) but only in the wimpy zone-8-like winters. Perhaps the frequent snow insulation helped, or else this is a hardier variety than I've grown previously. (It's called Avorio, and claims hardiness to zone 6, though I didn't actually believe that!)

Unfortunately I have planned a tomato plant for that space in my community garden plot, so I'll have to dig up the cardoon and move it somewhere else.

Cardoons are a close relative of artichokes, grown for the edible leaf stalks rather than for the flower bud. The stalks are better if blanched by wrapping the plant, which I admit I don't usually do, because it's so ornamental and dramatic if left alone. Here are some of those winter survivors from a few years back, with me as measuring stick:

And a closeup of the flower, which is why you want it to grow a second year (flowering the first year is possible but not common in my experience).

Very popular with bumblebees! Crossing my fingers for flowers this year for the demo garden plants.

Saturday, April 5, 2014

My new toy: broadfork

The first time I heard about, it was in the Eliot Coleman’s Four Season Gardening book a few years ago.  A broadfork is a big fork used mainly to break the soil and improve aeration and drainage by leaving the soil layers intact. No tilling or double-digging needed. In the organic gardening movement this is a must to have. Some sturdier broadforks can be used, for example, to remove turf, dig out blackberry roots, help to pull out quack grass and bermuda grass, dig up trees or root veggies, and prying out boulders. Compared to my  garden forged spading fork, the work is much easier and faster.

Many models exist on the market. Some are shown below.

Gulland Forge Broadfork


Johnny Seed Broadfork

Valleyoak Broadfork

I decided to go with a  Vashon Broadfork, an heavy duty model.

The model you buy will depend of the use you intend to impose on your broadfork.  The one with thinner tines (teeth) can only be used in lighter soil, vs the one with bigger tines that can break turf in clay soil.

Some other advantages to use a broadfork are:  good form of exercise and will lighten your wallet by about 200$+ shipping.

To use a broadfork to loose soil is easy. In short…

1.       Step on the bar to push down the tines in the soil.

2.       Hold on the handle bars and pull back until you reach a 45 degree angle.

3.        Pull the broad fork out.

4.       Step back few inches.

5.       Repeat.